Style ID of Vintage Jewelry

Vintage and period costume jewelry are back in vogue, although I doubt if the college kids realize that the brooches and cocktail rings they like so much are, in fact, "old lady". (Seventies-style bags have returned, too, but that's another post entirely.)

When you troll the flea markets and consignment stores for these pieces, keep in mind that "antique" jewelry is over a hundred years old, while "vintage" is anything over 50 years. Pieces that are more recent are simply pre-collectible.

Anyway, for those who want to tell Victorian from Edwardian and Art Nouveau from New Age, here are my crib notes.



Art Nouveau
(1895-1910)

The artists of this era had an obsession with Mother Nature. So curved lines, natural motifs, intertwined floral patterns, butterflies and dragonflies flitted on ladies' hands, ears and necks. The earthy luster of opals, pearls and moonstones were the jewelers' stones of choice.



Edwardian
(1901-1915)

Unlike the languid opulence of Art Nouveau, Edwardian pieces were light, feminine and ethereal. The white-on-white look of diamonds, pearls and platinum ruled the day.


Art Deco
(1915-1930)

Like the Bauhaus style of architecture and design, the jewelry of Jay Gatsby's day incorporated geometric lines and bold colors. The favored metals were platinum, white gold and silver, while emerald, ruby, sapphire, onyx, diamond and rock crystal gave ladies (and men) more options.




Retro
(1935-1950)

Think Jackie O. and you get the picture--oversized, feminine and like many of today's designs, inspired by previous periods. Rubies and other stones became popular.